[Jack's Blog: Rioja 22 November 2009  16:23 hrs + 1 GMT]

A good restaurant in La Rioja !

In Nájera I entered a restaurant named "Mesón El Buen Yantar". It is situated in the old town centre, just across the bridge (2nd street on the left). The head chef specializes in charcoal-grilled meats and fish, all seasonally fresh. I ordered garlic soup (it was a cold day), which was wonderfully flavorsome, with a poached egg in it. After that I had grilled lamb with perfect fries. Finally, a creme caramel with cream finalised a perfect menu.

 

To the pilgrims: be early. This restaurant will fill up quickly! (40 seats)

Owner / Head Chef Dina

Pilgrims only pay € 8,50 for a three-course menu, including a good wine, bread and water. On other tables I noticed grilled, fresh salmon fillets, lots of different salads and several mouthwatering deserts. Head chef / owner Dina Ugarte presents the best food on the camino through La Rioja! Dina is an excellent, creative chef.




[JACK'S BLOG: NAVARRA, RIOJA  20 November  16:23 hrs GMT 1]


FALL 2009. Crisis in Spain. Bad hotels, bad restaurants,or ...?

RESTAURANTE GENESIS II - SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA

People often think that being a restaurant reviewer is a nice, easy job. Jack and his Support Team do this job to keep the Camino Handbook up to date. This often results in disappointment. Why? Read this!

 Always verifying the details of the Handbook ...

One of the worst restaurants on the Camino de Santiago can be found in Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the Rioja. It was recommended to Jack by an ex-hospitalero of the albergue there. It is named Génesis II and situated behind the cathedral. Here is Jack's report:

"I asked for the menu and was told that it consisted of three starters: brown beans ("alubias"), peas with ham, or asparragos with mayonaise. Also three main courses were offered, all stews. The waitress served me a drink and a basket of 12-hour old bread. The soup of brown beans was cold, not even luke warm. Apparently they do not have a chef. The waitresses (2 of them) heat up ready-made food in large, 20-liter pans, and do not know how this should be done adequately. The mistake they make is that they continuously heat up the whole pan, not a small portion only. That is why my beans had become very mushy indeed. They had been reheated already many, many times!

I payed for my drink and left. I did not abuse the young lady. She still has to learn how to prepare a soup of beans and heat the contents up properly. (Maybe some chopped-up onions could be added, or garlic, parsley, tomato? Why not? No knife skills?) The price for the dinner would have been €10=. Their costs would have been: 1 glass of wine 0,10, beans 0,15, stew 0,60, bread 0,10, dessert 0,40, a total of €1,35. Their mark-up: 740%. Not bad!


The next morning I returned to take pictures. I noticed that one of the two FORKS which classify this restaurant had been taped over. The Restaurant Association had lowered their ranking to just one fork! At that moment a car  stopped. The owner of the restaurant advized me to enter the building: 'It is marvelous!' he said. Well, I thought it was rather outdated, and very dusty ... He looked like a friendly old man, who is being taken for a ride by two cute waitresses. (His accountant will wake him up, one day!)

    

Only one fork left! Cazuelitas (harty soups), platos típicos, menus variados????? Where? Not in Santo Domingo!

The conclusions. a) The Camino Handbook is correct when it states: Do not instantly believe anything a hospitalero or journalist says. Look for confirmation! They often recommend restaurants because they receive free food and drinks, while the normal customer receives lousy service and bad food, in particular on a quiet weeknight.

b) Don't expect line-caught, freshly smoked mackerel with sun-dried, organic tomatoes at Genesis II! Their recipes for success are: open a tin of baked beans. Open a tin of asparagus a serve with mayonaise. Open a tin of peas and mix in pieces of ham. Throw some meat, tinned tomatoes and onions in a pan. Simmer. No chef is ever needed, but the waitresses need some training on how to handle tin openers.




Casa Rural "Bidean" - Puente la Reina (Navarra)

They offer a room for €70= for one person, including a menu (without drinks) and a breakfast. It's not cheap, but the other hotels in Puente la Reina hold similar price-tags. The rooms are very small indeed, and one constantly has to move the bed (on wheels) to be able to reach the bathroom. Copper taps are everywhere of course, but the tiles are very dirty indeed. However, maybe one should expect that in a Casa Rural? The view consists of a small patio with a yellow wall only, at 2 meters distance. Not very "rural". There is only one, plastic glass in the bathroom. Not very "rural" either!

  

A very rustic (or: rusty?) showerhead, and a murky bath. Copper Oxide is poisonous.

Stickers everywhere in the bathroom: "Save water!", "Do not use bathtowels!" Again, this does not sound very "rural", and also very unhygienic in a room which isn't cleaned properly on a regular basis. (In reality they intend to say: "Save hot water, so that we get lower electricity bills!")

I was told that dinner would only be served between 2000 and 2100 hours. Be on time or you will not be served! A plate of 6 tapas in the bar costs €10=, not cheap for a few snacks. Breakfast is not served before 900 am. The dining room downstairs is quite nice, with repairs being done to the air conditioning. Unfortunately the waitress drops just about everything she holds in her hands on the floor. She continuously utters in Spanish: "¡Qué desastre!", and probably hopes that the Law of Gravity will cease to exist soon. The menu is not the same as the one which features on the sandwich board in the street. Lots of tomatoes and capsicums feature on this current menu; they are seasonal, and cost next to nothing in Puente la Reina. A few hours ago I visited the market nearby and payed 45 cents for a big bag of green "pimientos de Padrón ("tapas").


Market Day in Puente la Reina

Restaurants welcome!

Extra discount!

Beat the crisis! 

Tomatoes: 35 cents per kilo!

 Bell peppers: 50 cents per kilo!


No half-bottles of wine are available, and the prices of whole bottles range from €11 to €25. Water costs €1,50. Bread is served in a basket which is litterally thrown down on the table. Although this restaurant pretends to be first class, the waitress seems to have been trained in a gastro-pub.

The seafood mousse is blend, and has been obtained from a supermarket or wholesaler. It is accompanied by a mayonnaise to which a dollup of tomato ketchup has been added. This was trendy in the 1970s: a "1000-Island dressing" for prawn coctails. No slices of lemon are present though, no lettuce leafs, no sprig of parsley. Just one halved cherry tomato (from the market!)

 Beefsteak served in the shape of a rat?

The "aged" beef is tough, accompanied by soft, sloppy French fries. Not very classy either, and no vegetables come ever in sight. The steak has not properly been rested, so blood flows everywhere. The yogurt mousse comes from a supermarket, and has been scooped out of the plastic container with a spoon to form three small "quenelles". The accompanying dark-red sauce (a "wild-forest fruit coulis" on the menu!) comes from a bottle.

A young couple close to me is not very happy either: "The fish is defrosted but what can you expect in Puente la Reina?" the lady says. It is topped with fried capsicum rings, a rather "nouvelle" combination. The couple also complains about the room temperature upstairs: "it's very cold!"

The waitress asks for my room number and I go up to my room. The heating system now seems to have been switched on.


Twenty minutes later - I lie in bed - the phone rings, and the waitress says: "Sir, come down please to pay your bill". The lady owner has arrived and has decided not to take any financial risks. (Apparently there is "economic panic" in some catering establishments in Spain.) Downstairs I wait nearly 10 minutes because the printer does not work and other customers are paying in advance as well.  "I should have replaced this printer already years ago," the owner says. Well, printers obviously cost money, at least €40 !

During the night the nearby church bells sound every fifteen minutes ...

The next morning the breakfast is less than reasonable, with coffee from a boiler with a tap, not from the espresso machine behind the counter. Customers toast their own bread, and serve themselves cake and a fruit cocktail from a tin. Obviously this restaurant / bar / hotel isn't yet employing a chef. When I give the waitress my business card she smiles as if she wants to say: "Are we the best?"  "Mala suerte" I say. Bad luck. But, it's not her fault; the manager is always responsible. This manager has taken hundreds of customers for a ride, but one bad day a journalist/foodwriter arrives! (Jack de Groot has been the owner / head-chef of a licensed restaurant in Adelaide for 6 years).

 Not exactly a rural view!

The conclusion: The owner arrives only late at night to empty the till. One or two waitresses do the work, and no cooking is being done ever. Stickers in the bathroom tell the customers to use as little water and clean towels as possible to save "the environment" (and to keep the "overhead expenses" down). The costs of dinner would have been: steak €1,50, chips 0,05, mousse 0,55, yogurt mousse, 0,20, wine 3,00, bread 0,10. A total of: €5,40. (I payed 20,00 and 11,00 and 1,50 for the water, a total of 32,50.  Their mark-up is 601%, not as good as Restaurante Genesis II, but still OK!

 Save water? Or, save hot water?

Both of course, but: why waste thousands of plastic glasses!

    

Plastic glasses, and dirt everywhere you look.




Finally, some rather peculiar encounters, one on the Mercado de Abastos in Logroño and one in a Carrefour Supermarket, also in Logroño. First, let me say that the staff at "Hostal Numantina" in Calle Sagasta has been very friendly to me, as well as the staff at Restaurante "La Redonda" in nearby Calle Portales, both in Logroño.

At the market (in Calle Sagasta) I noticed a spectacular stand with smallgoods: sausages etc.  When I tried to take a picture a was rudely told by the owner to go away and not take a picture. In fact, he told me off three times. My reply was: "¡Vale!" (OK), also three times. Doesn't this man want to sell? What is it? He certainly had enough stock!

Nobody stops me from taking pictures (within reason of course!)

***

In a Carrefour Supermarket, close to the main plaza (Paseo del Espolón) I tried to take a picture of some Christmas decorations to put on the website. This was noticed by a security guard, who told me that: "Taking pictures in this establishment is not allowed without prior, written permission by the management!" While I showed him that I was deleting the picture I had taken, he kept on repeating this one sentence which he had obviously learned at the "Security Academy".

He followed me to the check out - as if I was going to cause big problems paying €8,90 - and stayed with me until I had physically reached the street. The check-out lady told me: "See you soon sir!" (which she had learned at "Carrefour Check-Out Training"), but I doubt this will ever happen. Anyway, this security man had a busy day, with excellent results: one pissed-off pilgrim!

Note: All 32 Carrefours in Belgium will be closed (March 2010). Maybe they are doing something wrong at Carrefour?