Some of the Best Moments of My Recent Pilgrimage to

 Santiago de Compostela

I started In Pamplona, and ended in Santiago, with a short trip to Cee (on the Atlantic Coast), and to Orense and Cea.

* When I arrived at the Albergue of Olveiroa (see picture) the hospitalera asked: "Have you eaten? All bars and restaurants are closed today! No? Then the owner of the restaurant near the bridge (at 2 kms from Olveiroa) will pick you up, serve you a three-course meal and bring you back to the Albergue." That 's what happened. He charged me a total of 10= for three plates of food, bread and wine, and for the four car rides he had to make. Note: the hospitalera at Negreira is also very helpful.

* When I returned to Santiago, after my walk to Negreira, Olveiroa and Cee, my Compostela was more than a week old. Theoratically I could not enter the Pilgrim's Dining Room anymore in the Hostal de Los Reyes Católicos for a free meal. However, there were not so many pilgrims, and the door man recognized me from earlier pilgrimages, and therefore he did not verify the date on my Compostela.

 * At the Berce do Camiño Albergue (at the end of Main Street Triacastela at km 130 from SDC) I was welcomed, given a stamp and charged 7 Euros for a (well-heated) overnight stay. When I asked about the price of a meal, I was told that "I was now part of the family and could eat and drink whatever I wanted!" Moments later I dined with the whole family. The next morning I had breakfast on my own, and left Triacastela to walk to Sarria.

* At Carrión de los Condes I received a double room, with a real bath and a kitchen with fridge for 25= (a reduced price). On New Year's Day I found a small bottle of champagne and some chocolates in my room. Happy New Year! The owner's name is Rocío. She runs this Hostal Albe all by herself. It is at the end of the main street on the left.

* The Puerta Santa is open! It will be open this year only, and next in 2021. For many pilgrims it will be the last time they pass these gates: three of them. The first two doors are the metal ones with artwork (1 is visible on the right). The next door is light green and also made of metal. This one is new (and very heavy!), and keeps the wind out. The last door is near the Plaza Quintana: it is made of metal bars to keep the tourists out during the "normal" years.

* I went back by bus from Cee on the Atlantic Coast to Santiago. At the end of the busride through beastly weather I thanked the bus driver (Monbus) for a safe trip. "Thank you, sir", was his answer.

 * At the house of Rebekah and Paddy I received everything I needed as usual, after a long, cold walk from Carrión. They live at 12 kms from Sahagún, in Moratinos. On her BLOG Reb writes that some guests leave as little as 6= donation behind, some even nothing. They do not pay for meals, bed, hot shower etc.! Do they see themselves as heroes, these pilgrims? Millions have gone before them, under much worse circumstances! A pilgrimage these days costs some 25 Euros per day. Leave at least 10= "donativo" behind for an overnight stay with food.

* At the wonderful, heated Albergue del Pilar at Rabanal del Camino the hospitalera Isabel charged us 5= for the stay, 5= for a huge meal with lots of bread, beer and wine, and 3= for a very good breakfast. She also took us to the Pilgrim Mass at 7 pm to listen to two priests singing Gregorian hymns for us. Wonderful!  Isabel provides the pilgrims with everything they need, in a tiny village without shops. She needs to get all supplies by car from Astorga at 20 kms.

* Earlier on Monica, Bartek, Jacob and I spent Christmas Day at the house of Dr. Inia Lund in Agés (near Atapuerca). Wonderful! More on that in Jack's Blog II.

* The best - by far - was the fact that a pilgrim took a picture of me and Tomás at Manjarín. Here it is:

11 - 1 - 2010

Thank you, José and Roberto at Pérez Habitaciones, Portomarín, Pepe at Hostal Plaza at Palas de Rei, Raquel and Isabel at Hostal La Salle at Santiago de Compostela, Remedios and Laura at Bar O'Poio near Piedrafita, the owner of Bar O'Campo at Casas Novas (near Orense), Ana at bar El Labrador at Hospital de la Cruz, Luis, owner of the restaurant at Ambasmestas, and all my fellow pilgrim mates: Monica, Bartek, Eugene, Inge, Jacob, Virgilio, Marcos, Monica, Cristiano, Brian, Joy, Parc, Sue, Noel ...

More pictures on the GALLERY and on JACKDEGROOT.COM (My Top 10) 

The view from my room at Hostal La Salle in Santiago:

 (uploading may take a few moments)

 AMAWALKER, REBEKAH SCOTT, SANTIAGOBIS, AMERICAN PILGRIMS, CONFRATERNITY Saint james, university press

 of the south, Jack de Groot, pilgrim handbook, fresco tours, eroski, most updated handbook, pamplona, xacobeo, holy year 2010,

Pope Benedictus 16, Compostela, USA, Budget travel, Alain SAint Saens, Pablo Coelho, Tweevoeter, Anton Pombo, El Pais.